Haha, been there. This ones a little tricky. Hope you have strong fingers. Start by removing the base. There are 3 screws.

First pull the base plate off. Then remove 2 screws. Next remove the little rubber insert in the center of the base bracket. You will need a long phillips to get to the 3rd screw. Slide out the base bracket. Flip the panel over and stare at the lcd with the buttons side on the top. Grab a small flat head screw driver.

Look at an angle in each of the corners between the inner black lcd trim and the silver outside trim. There is a slit. Shove the flathead in there and pry outward toward the silver trim while lifting on the black inner trim vertically. The trick is to flex the black trim toward the silver and then pull up.

Australian Simulation Glasair Iii Fsx Planes more. Monitor LCD w1907 Monitor LCD w2007 Monitor LCD w2207. Ajuste solo los controles que se describen en las instrucciones de funcionamiento.

There are 6 plastic snaps on the top and bottom, and 4 snaps on the left and right. If you've taken laptop screens apart, you'll feel the similarity.

Once you pry the black trim off the front. Disconnect the LCD Menu button assembly and power button. Then flip over the LCD and lift off the back shell.

Looking at the back, remove the 2 connectors for the speakers. Use a small flathead to pry the 4 Inverter power connectors. These 4 connectors have a clip on them and are usually hard to pull out using the wire. Once thoses 6 connectors are removed, remove the 2 phillips screws holding the AC power plug to the case. Also remove the 4 3/16 posts for the VGA and DVI ports. Next remove 4 screws, 2 screws from each side of the LCD assembly.

Hold the panel face down with the aluminum tape in the bottom left. Lift the shield and guide the 6 wires through the cage. While opening, look inside and disconnect the flat ribbon cable as soon as you can. Put the LCD to the side. Remove 2 screws from the Video processing board, and 5 screws from the power supply. Note: 1 of the 5 screws is longer. Rotate/slide the power PCB away from the cage to clear the speaker and AC plug, Then rotate towards the Video board.

Disaconnect 1 plug. The OTHER plug is SOLDERED and must be disconnected from the video processing board. There you have it. It stumped me for about a half hour. No pry marks.

Barely noticed the 2 slits in between the trims. Well, good luck. Happy Soldering. PS: I opened mine because I assumed it had bad capacitors.

It only powers on for a short short period of time. Haha, been there. This ones a little tricky. Hope you have strong fingers.

Start by removing the base. There are 3 screws. First pull the base plate off. Then remove 2 screws.

Next remove the little rubber insert in the center of the base bracket. You will need a long phillips to get to the 3rd screw. Slide out the base bracket. Flip the panel over and stare at the lcd with the buttons side on the top. Grab a small flat head screw driver. Look at an angle in each of the corners between the inner black lcd trim and the silver outside trim. There is a slit.

Shove the flathead in there and pry outward toward the silver trim while lifting on the black inner trim vertically. The trick is to flex the black trim toward the silver and then pull up. There are 6 plastic snaps on the top and bottom, and 4 snaps on the left and right. If you've taken laptop screens apart, you'll feel the similarity. Once you pry the black trim off the front.

Disconnect the LCD Menu button assembly and power button. Then flip over the LCD and lift off the back shell. Looking at the back, remove the 2 connectors for the speakers.

Use a small flathead to pry the 4 Inverter power connectors. These 4 connectors have a clip on them and are usually hard to pull out using the wire. Once thoses 6 connectors are removed, remove the 2 phillips screws holding the AC power plug to the case. Also remove the 4 3/16 posts for the VGA and DVI ports. Next remove 4 screws, 2 screws from each side of the LCD assembly. Hold the panel face down with the aluminum tape in the bottom left.

Lift the shield and guide the 6 wires through the cage. While opening, look inside and disconnect the flat ribbon cable as soon as you can. Put the LCD to the side.

Remove 2 screws from the Video processing board, and 5 screws from the power supply. Note: 1 of the 5 screws is longer. Rotate/slide the power PCB away from the cage to clear the speaker and AC plug, Then rotate towards the Video board. Disaconnect 1 plug.

The OTHER plug is SOLDERED and must be disconnected from the video processing board. There you have it. It stumped me for about a half hour. No pry marks. Barely noticed the 2 slits in between the trims.

Well, good luck. Happy Soldering. PS: I opened mine because I assumed it had bad capacitors.

It only powers on for a short short period of time. Your direction was very helpful, thank you. It was a pain to get apart, but I, like you, have the same problem with monitor going 'black' after it warms up. Shut it off and turn back on, picture is good for a few min's, if that then out again. What did you find to be the problem with yours??? Much appreciated if you can help, thanks.

Can any one give instruction to replace the bulbs? There are 2 bulbs. One on top and one on the bottom of the LCD assembly. They run the long way. You usually need to remove some metal tape to expose them.

The 4 - 2 pin plugs you disconnected are the CCFL leads. I havn't looked, but this is standard info for all LCD assemblies that have CCFL.

Sometimes the LCD has a metal trim that goes all the way around the outside edge. It needs to be removed to access the CCFL bulbs. At this point, the 3-4 layers that make up your LCD can come out. Don't remove them, or mix them up, or get dust in there.

Just makes it harder later. Also check for sloppy soldering from the factory(Power supply). The inverter is built into the power supply on this model. Well good luck. Haha, been there. This ones a little tricky.

Hope you have strong fingers. Start by removing the base.

There are 3 screws. First pull the base plate off. Then remove 2 screws. Next remove the little rubber insert in the center of the base bracket. You will need a long phillips to get to the 3rd screw.

Slide out the base bracket. Flip the panel over and stare at the lcd with the buttons side on the top. Grab a small flat head screw driver. Look at an angle in each of the corners between the inner black lcd trim and the silver outside trim. There is a slit.

Shove the flathead in there and pry outward toward the silver trim while lifting on the black inner trim vertically. The trick is to flex the black trim toward the silver and then pull up. There are 6 plastic snaps on the top and bottom, and 4 snaps on the left and right. If you've taken laptop screens apart, you'll feel the similarity. Once you pry the black trim off the front. Disconnect the LCD Menu button assembly and power button.

Then flip over the LCD and lift off the back shell. Looking at the back, remove the 2 connectors for the speakers. Use a small flathead to pry the 4 Inverter power connectors. These 4 connectors have a clip on them and are usually hard to pull out using the wire.

Once thoses 6 connectors are removed, remove the 2 phillips screws holding the AC power plug to the case. Also remove the 4 3/16 posts for the VGA and DVI ports. Next remove 4 screws, 2 screws from each side of the LCD assembly. Hold the panel face down with the aluminum tape in the bottom left. Lift the shield and guide the 6 wires through the cage. While opening, look inside and disconnect the flat ribbon cable as soon as you can.

Put the LCD to the side. Remove 2 screws from the Video processing board, and 5 screws from the power supply. Note: 1 of the 5 screws is longer.

Rotate/slide the power PCB away from the cage to clear the speaker and AC plug, Then rotate towards the Video board. Disaconnect 1 plug.

The OTHER plug is SOLDERED and must be disconnected from the video processing board. There you have it. It stumped me for about a half hour. No pry marks.

Barely noticed the 2 slits in between the trims. Well, good luck. Happy Soldering.

PS: I opened mine because I assumed it had bad capacitors. It only powers on for a short short period of time. Hello, I followed your (very comprehensive!) description of how to take apart the w1907 monitor, and I disassembled the monitor because I assumed bad capacitors as well, however upon removing the power circuit board and examined the capacitors I did not find any bulging or leaking capacitors and I was wondering If the capacitors were you problem as well, but were they leaking or bulging on your monitor? I have one here that stays of for several minutes then goes black.

Power off & on restores picture for a few minutes. Again and again. Cure was to replace the lower bulbs. Monitor Mike Same problem here, followed the instruction to take her apart, finally got to the bulbs(capacitors look fine) and they look pretty good. All the bulbs have a little black on each end, but they all work. I plugged them back into the board with the monitor still dismantled, plugged in the AC cord and powered her up. *Wear sunglasses if you attempt this* Stuff is Bright.

I was expecting either the top or bottom bulbs to give out, or single bulb, but instead they all flicker and go out at the same time. So could the culprit of this problem still be the bulbs?

What else could it be? Much appreciate your instructions for dismantling as well though i had to dig further in order to get the plastic covering off. Finally got the thing dismantled didnt take off the boards, took of the lcd screen and just left the lights and powered it up they came on and stayed on for ten mintues until i unplugged them.

Plugged them back in and they still worked so i then halfway assembled the lcd screen againand turned it on cut out after 2 seconds. Took it apart again and tried again did this a few times.appears theres a short somewhere.depending on how the ccfl cables are positioned they will stay on or go dark. Not sure where the short is as everything looks fine but im sure its not a capacitor or the bulbs because i was able to get mines too stay on for over an hour with lcd on. Gonna take the shrink wrap off of the leads and investigate further. Much appreciate your instructions for dismantling as well though i had to dig further in order to get the plastic covering off.

Finally got the thing dismantled didnt take off the boards, took of the lcd screen and just left the lights and powered it up they came on and stayed on for ten mintues until i unplugged them. Plugged them back in and they still worked so i then halfway assembled the lcd screen againand turned it on cut out after 2 seconds. Took it apart again and tried again did this a few times.appears theres a short somewhere.depending on how the ccfl cables are positioned they will stay on or go dark. Not sure where the short is as everything looks fine but im sure its not a capacitor or the bulbs because i was able to get mines too stay on for over an hour with lcd on.

Gonna take the shrink wrap off of the leads and investigate further Followed this thread all the way down. Did you find a solution after you ripped off the shrink wrap? I had this same problem with the display going off after about 4 seconds.

What I did was: There are for plugs inside on the left side that I would guess come from the backlight bulbs.I simply switched them around.I switched the top plugs around and the bottom plugs around just to see what it would do. I hooked the monitor back up and it came on and stayed on. And I don't mind saying: Not bad for finding the thing at the dump. LOL thank you very much your little trick worked on mine to i switched them around like u did and bam she worked. Haha, been there.

This ones a little tricky. Hope you have strong fingers. Start by removing the base. There are 3 screws. First pull the base plate off. Then remove 2 screws. Next remove the little rubber insert in the center of the base bracket.

You will need a long phillips to get to the 3rd screw. Slide out the base bracket. Flip the panel over and stare at the lcd with the buttons side on the top. Grab a small flat head screw driver. Look at an angle in each of the corners between the inner black lcd trim and the silver outside trim. There is a slit. Shove the flathead in there and pry outward toward the silver trim while lifting on the black inner trim vertically.

The trick is to flex the black trim toward the silver and then pull up. There are 6 plastic snaps on the top and bottom, and 4 snaps on the left and right. If you've taken laptop screens apart, you'll feel the similarity. Once you pry the black trim off the front. Disconnect the LCD Menu button assembly and power button. Then flip over the LCD and lift off the back shell. Looking at the back, remove the 2 connectors for the speakers.

Use a small flathead to pry the 4 Inverter power connectors. These 4 connectors have a clip on them and are usually hard to pull out using the wire.

Once thoses 6 connectors are removed, remove the 2 phillips screws holding the AC power plug to the case. Also remove the 4 3/16 posts for the VGA and DVI ports. Next remove 4 screws, 2 screws from each side of the LCD assembly.

Hold the panel face down with the aluminum tape in the bottom left. Lift the shield and guide the 6 wires through the cage. While opening, look inside and disconnect the flat ribbon cable as soon as you can. Put the LCD to the side. Remove 2 screws from the Video processing board, and 5 screws from the power supply. Note: 1 of the 5 screws is longer. Rotate/slide the power PCB away from the cage to clear the speaker and AC plug, Then rotate towards the Video board.

Disaconnect 1 plug. The OTHER plug is SOLDERED and must be disconnected from the video processing board.

There you have it. It stumped me for about a half hour. No pry marks. Barely noticed the 2 slits in between the trims.

Well, good luck. Happy Soldering.

PS: I opened mine because I assumed it had bad capacitors. It only powers on for a short short period of time. First, Thank You Very Very Much for the wonderful help about opening HP w1907 and pointed out the capacitor changing thing. I am an engineer of electronics but only three or four things i opened & repaired by myself because i am in a cotton business now. I am using HP w1907 since last 4 years, just before 4 days it started black out problems when i log off from windows 8, i could log off but was not able to SHUT DOWN or RESTART because of the monitor black out, when i try to start the monitor from power button above the panel 6 to 7 times then only it could stay ON for SHUT DOWN or RESTART. Then i googled, no help even from the HP site,i have seen many forums of other users who are suffering the same problem on HP site.then i started finding solution over here and i have luckily found your forum about opening it and changing the capacitor about which we doubt as not working, then yesterday i first opened the monitor as per your guidance, i opened every parts of the monitor. When i opened the power supply i saw 1000uF 25V 105C(little bigger) and 470uF 25V 102C(smaller)-2 Nos., then i went to a nearby electronics shop and purchased a soldering iron,flux,desoldering wik, and all the 3 capacitors.

I found 85C capable instead of 105C & 102C,other values are same.i thought there is no problem in little tempreture difference characteristics. Then came back home and changed all the 3 capacitors, i had a very good grip in soldering when i finished my studies in 1991, so perfectly done that. Then fixed all the parts of the monitor carefully, switched ON.

And all the BLACK OUTS were gone. I was sooooooo happy, now my monitor is working like a BRAND NEW one. Thank You for sharing your HP w1907 repairing experience here, it really really helped me. -SANJAY VACHHANI(INDIA). Symptom: backlight shutting off after 2 seconds, screen seeming to go black / off, shining bright torch at screen could see dull image. Disassembled(you tube has clear video tutorial) tried: Checked capacitors, none bulging checked backlight wires-looked ok, tested ok on continuity holding down power button for 60 seconds- NO success turning down brightness in settings (using torch to make image/menu visible.NO success SUCCESS as mentioned in previous posts SWAPPED around BACKLIGHT PLUGS = SUCCESS, now working again, i.e swap 2 at the top around, then swap 2 at bottom around.

Kudos to the contributor(s) who mentioned and the ones who had success with it and posted. I had this same problem with the display going off after about 4 seconds. What I did was: There are for plugs inside on the left side that I would guess come from the backlight bulbs.I simply switched them around.I switched the top plugs around and the bottom plugs around just to see what it would do. I hooked the monitor back up and it came on and stayed on.

And I don't mind saying: Not bad for finding the thing at the dump. LOL I bought mine new in '07, and suddenly it started going black, and would only come on for a couple seconds at a time.

For the past year I've been using an old crt display monitor and it took up a lot of my desk. Anyway, I finally decided to investigate the monitor and couldn't figure out how to get it apart, and ended up on this thread. I switched the wires around and tried it.

At first it just shut off, then lasted a little longer, but was still going black after a minute or so. I switched the lower wires back to normal, and left the upper wires switched, and after some flickering for a while, it seems steady and I'm using it to write on this thread! What's funny is I have another exact monitor, just like this one, that died a month after this one did. As I remember it had another problem though, but still ended with going black.

I'm sure eventually I'll have to replace some capacitors but for now it works. Awesome thread. Haha, been there. This ones a little tricky. Hope you have strong fingers.

Start by removing the base. There are 3 screws. First pull the base plate off. Then remove 2 screws. Next remove the little rubber insert in the center of the base bracket. You will need a long phillips to get to the 3rd screw.

Slide out the base bracket. Flip the panel over and stare at the lcd with the buttons side on the top. Grab a small flat head screw driver. Look at an angle in each of the corners between the inner black lcd trim and the silver outside trim. There is a slit. Shove the flathead in there and pry outward toward the silver trim while lifting on the black inner trim vertically. The trick is to flex the black trim toward the silver and then pull up.

There are 6 plastic snaps on the top and bottom, and 4 snaps on the left and right. If you've taken laptop screens apart, you'll feel the similarity. Once you pry the black trim off the front. Disconnect the LCD Menu button assembly and power button.

Then flip over the LCD and lift off the back shell. Looking at the back, remove the 2 connectors for the speakers. Use a small flathead to pry the 4 Inverter power connectors. These 4 connectors have a clip on them and are usually hard to pull out using the wire. Once thoses 6 connectors are removed, remove the 2 phillips screws holding the AC power plug to the case. Also remove the 4 3/16 posts for the VGA and DVI ports.

Next remove 4 screws, 2 screws from each side of the LCD assembly. Hold the panel face down with the aluminum tape in the bottom left.

Lift the shield and guide the 6 wires through the cage. While opening, look inside and disconnect the flat ribbon cable as soon as you can. Put the LCD to the side.

Remove 2 screws from the Video processing board, and 5 screws from the power supply. Note: 1 of the 5 screws is longer.

Rotate/slide the power PCB away from the cage to clear the speaker and AC plug, Then rotate towards the Video board. Disaconnect 1 plug. The OTHER plug is SOLDERED and must be disconnected from the video processing board. There you have it. It stumped me for about a half hour.

No pry marks. Barely noticed the 2 slits in between the trims. Well, good luck.

Happy Soldering. PS: I opened mine because I assumed it had bad capacitors. It only powers on for a short short period of time.

Which end is the flat cable disconnected from, one end is glued firmly to the flat panel and strongly resists being pulled and the other end seems very difficult to get to. Hope you are still checking on this post best regards Alan. This isn't so much an answer, but I have the same problem. Iclass Rfid Hacking. Took the 1907 apart tried switching the back light cables and no go. The monitor turns on and the power light just flashes from blue to green over and over. After playing with it for an hour or so.

I figured out, if I unplug the cable from the video input board to the lcd screen and turn it on the backlights come on, then if I plug that cable back in while powered on the monitor works fine! Until you unplug it, and then the flashing starts again. If I unplug cable from video board to lcd and power back on back lights work, and plug cable back into lcd monitor works again! I would live with this as a fix, but if the power goes out. I hav to take the monitor apart again just to do this.